Eyelet Plier Hack

I insert a lot of eyelets and grommets into my project using the Dritz Eyelet Plier Kit. And every. single. time, I have to get out the directions. At first, I copied the back of the package and laminated it. I put that into my little "grommet/eyelet" basket were I kept them. Even so, I'd read and re-read out of fear that I'd do it incorrectly.

The other day I was adding some eyelets to a hanging shoe organizer that I cut up so it would fit going down my stairs. And it finally hit me: write on the pliers (Deep Half goes on the Right Side - Shallow Half goes on the Wrong Side).

BTW, I love my label-maker, too.

Bernina Feet Storage

Last week, Bernina posted a picture on their FB page of an organized accessory box. I shared this picture and got some positive responses -- so I thought I'd write about it.

I keep most of the feet for my Bernina 240 in a plastic case with dividers (just like this one) stowed away in a drawer. I don't use the plastic accessory box that came with it. But there are several feet that I use a lot; those feet were taking up space in the area next to my machine (and I kept knocking them off).

My solution was to remove the foot "shelf" from the accessory box and stick it to the underside of my Horn Cabinet. I used the 3M Picture Hanging Strips (like velcro). BTW, I think that there are coupons on their website!

Now I have easy-access to my feet!

Parts of a Sewing Machine: Interactive!

If you are new to sewing, you might not quite understand what all the knobs and levers are on a sewing machine. I found a picture of one of my basic beginner sewing machines and got to work making it interactive - just place your cursor on the picture! I've provided some links to websites and videos. Give it some time to load....and enjoy! 

What Plumbers Could Learn From Us.

When I walked into my house on Friday, the thermostat read a cool 59 degrees. I simply hit the "up" arrow and the furnace came on. A temporary fix. So much for an easy weekend of sewing. I added this to my list of home improvement projects. Ugh. Although I'm fairly handy, I don't enjoy spending my weekend fixing things. My most pressing issue was my leaky bathtub faucet. Plumbing scares me.

I don't know much about plumbing, so I searched online for videos and tutorials but found only the vague or ridiculous. I teetered between overconfident and terrified. Eventually the overconfident (and thrifty) Bia took over. I decided to give it a try. As I slowly disassembled the hot water faucet, I felt my moxie slide. What the heck was I thinking? This mechanism didn't look like anything I'd seen before. I took some pictures and headed to Home Depot. The guy in the plumbing section found the part I needed and began a cryptic, half-hearted explanation. About all I remember hearing is, "Blah...blah...blah, it's really difficult to get it lined up. You'll need a flashlight and a screwdriver....blah...blah...rubber cup and spring." I think the entire aisle of plumbing parts freaked me out. I became a very bad listener.

I came home and with some prying, got the unit apart. I did it carefully, but there wasn't much to the assembly. The main problem was that there were no directions. Nothing at all for me to follow. I slid the pieces in through the hole in the wall and everything fit beautifully. I put it all back together, and after a minor bit of celebrating, headed to the basement to turn on my water. Defeat. I could hear the water running. To make a really long story short, this continued for about two hours. I took it apart, put it back together, took it apart, ran downstairs, turned the water on. Turned the water off. Gave up. Went back. Looked at the cold water faucet. Yelled. Stretched. Punched my fists in the air. At 9 pm, turned on TV and watched John Carter.

I don't know how I managed it, but I got a full eight hours of sleep. Usually I lie in bed visualizing the problem to the point that my brain won't shut off. I now realize why that didn't happen. Most of my projects make sense. I can figure them out. This made no sense. None. Nada.

After two cups of coffee (liquid courage), I decided to hit the tub for one last try. It took an additional 90 minutes of work, and at times I felt like I was playing the board game Operation, but I did it. I figured it out. It took some tweezers and some homemade tools, but I did it. In remote villages in Africa, running water is a great sound. In the little city of Corning, the absence of running water is a great sound. And I heard nothing. It was music to my ears.

I took a celebratory walk in my neighborhood and thought about my experience. Why the heck was this so difficult? Why is there a whole freak'n wall of plumbing parts that all look similar but aren't? And who designs these parts? I think plumbers could learn a lot from us. When sewists and quilters encounter something complicated, we find a way to make it simple. We create templates, tools, and tutorials that we post and pin. We fix the problem. And we love to find and share ways to make the whole process easier. Mostly, it's free. If it's a little more complicated, we might sell something; nonetheless, our goal is to do what we can to help bring others into the community of sewing. We love our sewing communities. And our wealth comes from the joy we get from sharing and helping. 

A few years ago, I paid a guy $130 to replace the wax ring on my old toilet. A month later, my sisters visited me. They helped me pick out a new toilet and the three of us removed the old one and installed the new one. It was sisterhood at its best. Kind of like how I feel when I hang out with my sewing sisters. Everything is better when we work together!

Foot Fun

I've been a little preoccupied lately with listening to and grading speeches, but I declared this weekend to be my sewing weekend. I spent most of Saturday talking to my family in Michigan who, oddly enough, were without power for almost two days. Yes, Sandy spared me (and I live in NY) but my family who lives 330 miles west of me were not so lucky. It did teach me a lesson - get a gas fireplace!

I managed to squeeze in a little sewing time. I hemmed a pair of dress pants using a blind hemstitch and my Bernina Foot #5. I rarely use this stitch so I had to go online for a tutorial. I found this one at We All Sew. This tutorial will help anyone with any machine brand. The feet are basically the same. The foot is a real gem and it comes with most machines. You might be thinking, "I don't hem." And that's fine, but this foot can be used for more than hemming. 

I wrote a previous article about the Edgestitch Foot. You can often use the blind hemstitch foot instead of the edgestitch foot. Recently, I was showing a friend how to sew double-fold bias tape. When she was top stitching the bias tape (the final step) she exclaimed, "I can't sew a straight line!" I looked in her foot collection and found the Janome Adjustable Blind Hem Stitch foot. She attached the foot, made some adjustments, lined up the guide, and sewed a perfectly straight line! So, yes, you might have some feet that are designed for one thing but can be used for other things. I really encourage you to explore your owner's manual and visit the manufacturer's website for tips and directions.

it was wonderful getting back in my sewing room to sew even if it was only to hem a pair of pants. I did manage to set aside some time today go to Ithaca for the first meeting of the local Modern Quilt Guild. I'm hoping for a little inspiration!

If you are interested in making and/or sewing double fold bias tape, head over to my Craftsy Pattern Store for some free tutorials!

Buying A Sewing Machine: Testing Machines

When you head to a dealer to test machines, be prepared. Bring a pen and paper - and a brochure printed from the internet. I recommend creating a spreadsheet with the machines listed in a column, then columns for pricing, features, feet, etc. This spreadsheet will give an at-a-glance overview. If that's too much, you'll still want to take notes.

If you are nervous, take a friend...whose job is to talk you out of going over your budget!

1. The very first thing to pay attention to is how you are treated. The dealer should be nice and genuine. You should feel comfortable and welcomed - tell them what you are looking for - and they should start you there. If they try to up-sell (sell you something out of your budget), GET OUT. Some dealers sell multiple brands - so you can test out a lot of different machines - but he/she shouldn't push you to a particular brand. You need to decide! So practice saying, "That's not what I'm looking for" and "I think that machine is more than what I need." Trust me. I know way too many people who spent a lot of money on a machine that they can't handle.
2. The second thing you want to do is ask about the warranty for the machines. Along with warranty information, question their service agreement - often stores will offer free service (cleaning and oiling) for a specified number of years. You can also ask how much service usually costs. Some dealers will have a "trade-up" program; this means that if you use your machine for less than a specified period of time (like 6 months), you can bring it back, return it, and apply the cost to a new, more expensive machine. Also ask about lessons. Most dealers give free owner lessons. Some even have subsequent classes so you can learn more about the machine - these may have a fee.
3. Look around the store and start with the most expensive machine you are willing to buy; test it out...then work your way down in price. If you start at the lowest price and work up, you'll probably keep going and end up out of your price range! Plus, this will help you figure out what you can and can't live with.
4. Note the features and accessories that come with each machine, along with the price. One often over-looked feature is the light. A good light can make or break a machine. Can you actually see to sew?!
5. The dealer should give you sample fabric to sew on. Most will have you sew different weights (so a sheer all the way up to denim). It's important to think about how you'll use the machine. If you plan on making totes and purses or home dec, you'll want a machine that can sew through several layers of fabric. I've seen dealers fold denim several layers.
6. Watch how the machine feeds the fabric - it should feed evenly and not pull the fabric to the right or left. You should have a consistent seam allowance. Listen to the machine - it should sound smooth. The machine should not hesitate, especially when you are sewing thick fabric.
7. Try different stitches - straight stitch, zig zag, decorative stitches, buttonhole, etc. Try the stitches that you use a lot. 
8. Wind a bobbin and put it in the machine. How easy is it to do?
9. Thread the machine. Does it thread easily?
10. Use the machine in a way that you would use it. It should feel comfortable. Can you find the buttons and knobs? Will it be easy to learn where everything is? 

Don't be shy about asking questions and test-driving the machines. This is an investment and you want to be happy with your decision.

This should get you started on your journey. Tomorrow, we'll go over what to do once you make your decision.

Buying A Sewing Machine: The Goodies!

Machines have a lot of features - some you'll use and some you won't. I've done an informal poll of my friends and students and found that they love the following features:

1. Needle Up/Down: The needle will end up or down - you determine what you want. No more turning the hand-wheel to move the needle!
2. Automatic Needle Threader: I can't live without this! Thread your machine, then use this feature to thread your needle!
3. Needle Position: With the push of a button, you can move your needle to the right and to the left. It makes sewing a lot more precise!
4. Front Loading OR Drop-in Bobbin: A front loading bobbin loads from the front of the machine. I have found that this bobbin maintains tension better but it's cumbersome to change. You can't see it once the little door is closed. A Drop-In Bobbin loads from the top; you can see it as you sew. This means you can easily check the amount of thread that remains. But thread has been known to slip out of the tension. 
5. Lights: Machines come with a light, but not all are the same. Some will mimic sunlight which makes seeing your sewing a lot easier!
6. Extension Table: Although these can be purchased, some machines come with an extension table. You can find large ones at your dealer or at an online source like Sewing Machines Plus.
7. Decorative Stitches: In addition to utility stitches (straight stitch, zig-zag, blind hem, etc), many machines have decorative stitches and alphabets that can add an artistic element to a project.
8. Feet: Most machines come with a standard set of two or three feet, but many include additional feet and attachments.
9. Buttonhole Foot/Attachment: This varies on most machines, but you want an attachment that makes putting in a buttonhole easy. Ask for a demo when you go shopping. 
10. Scissors: Some machines will cut the thread for you. Yes, you read that right. Push a button and you're done! 
11. Knee Bar: A knee bar attaches to your machines and allows you to lift and lower your presser foot with a push of your knee. This means that your hands are free to hold your project! I use mine so much, I have a bruise on my knee. A favorite among quilters.
12. Foot Pedal: Press the back of the pedal and your needle raises/lowers; press the front and the presser foot raises or lowers! More hands-free sewing!
13. Dual-Feed: Dual feed is a feature that allows the foot to work in conjunction with the feed dogs - so it pulls the fabric through the machine from both the top and the bottom. So, when sewing thick or multiple layers you don't end up with a bottom layer that is uneven with the top layer.
14. Stitch-Regulator: A stitch regulator is a feature/foot attachment that makes free-motion stitching a lot easier. Freemotion is when you drop the feed dogs and you are in control (quilters often do this to quilt). Here is a great example of freemotion stitching with additional information on feet. And here is an incredible blog that features different designs - The Freemotion Quilting Project.
15. Easy to Access: You'll want a machine that is easy to take apart to clean. You should be able to get your hands and fingers into places to take screws out.
16. Magnifying Glass: Some machines come with a magnifying glass attachment. As my eyes age, I find this more and more attractive!
17. Machine Embroidery: Some machines sew and embroider - dual duty! Watch the video below to get an idea what an embroidery machine does - this machine is plugged into a computer. WARNING - You may want to turn the volume down =) And if you are wondering, that machine with the embroidery unit cost about $3300 (in my area). Bernina no longer makes the 440 QE.

Any other favorite features? Tomorrow we'll look at what to expect when you test a machine!

Buying a Sewing Machine: Setting a Budget

I've had many different machines and brands in my studio - and if there's one thing I've learned it's "you get what you pay for." So my advice is to get the best you can afford.

Machines can be as inexpensive as $50 and as expensive as $10,000. Because a sewing machine is an investment, I recommend purchasing a machine from a reputable dealer; you will pay more, but you’ll get lessons, customer service, and a warranty. A quality machine will last considerably longer if properly maintained. Plus, I believe in supporting local businesses. If you don't have a local dealer, you can drive to find one or you can order something online. Buying online is tempting (cheaper) but you won't have a chance to take it for a test-drive or ask for help.

When you get opinions from others, keep in mind that there is a lot of brand-loyalty. You'll find that everyone thinks that there machine is the best and better than the next person's machine. Also, be careful of online reviews and magazine recommendations. The top selling machines are usually the ones that are cheap and are easy to buy...and not always good quality. I have sewn on almost every brand out there (Singer, Janome, Husqvarna-Viking, Bernina, Brother, Kenmore, and yes, even a Shark!). I own a Janome, a Husqvarna-Viking, and a Bernina. And from my experience (and don't be mad at me!), the machines my students have the worst time with are the ones that are sold at big box stores. The fabric doesn't feed evenly, they won't sew through thick fabric, the stitch quality is poor, the bobbin gets stuck, etc.

Most good machines start at around $400. Cheaper machines will work, but often have plastic parts that will easily wear out; you'll quickly spend your savings in repairs. So what do you get with more $$? Well, three things: features, accessories, and quality. 

• Features: machines now come will all kinds of do-dads. Some machines are really basic with knobs while other are computerized and have push-buttons. You find ones that the needle moves right to left, ends up or down, and threads with ease; have variety of utility and decorative stitches; automatically cut thread; include a multitude of extra feet; can adjust the presser-foot pressure, etc. Think about what type of sewing you do and what you'd like to do. If you quilt, do you really need 150 decorative stitches? Make sure you can grow into your machine. Sewing has changed a lot - so you may start with "I want to hem pants"and end up making cute applique pillows! In that case, you may be interested in a sewing machine that also does machine embroidery (a good embroidery machine can start at about $1000).

• Accessories: these are the goods that you get when you purchase a machine: feet, bobbins, table, attachments, etc. So consider the cost of these extras. Sometimes a more expensive machine is worth the added expense (and cheaper in the long run) because of the accessories that come with it. Also consider the feet - I love my feet and use a lot of different ones. Some machines don't have lots of feet. You buy it and get two or three and that's about all you'll ever have.

• Quality: when you take a machine apart, you find lots of metal and plastic. Metal weighs more than plastic - but it also wears better. Cheaper-made machines cost more to maintain because they typically break more often. BTW, in my area (upstate NY), a basic cleaning/service costs $49. I take my machines in every two years. So consider those costs, too.

There are several brands that, from my experience, are better quality: Bernina, Husqvarna-Viking, Janome, Babylock, and Pfaff. All of these must be purchased from a dealer, so check them out online first.

Tomorrow, I'll explore what features come on a machine.

Buying A Sewing Machine Week

I've had a lot of people ask my advice about buying a sewing machine, so I thought I'd write some posts about the process. I own three different brands and have sewn on several brands and models. I've also had a lot of different machines show up in the studio. I do not consider myself brand-loyal - instead, I approach the buying process with an open mind. I believe that you need to get a machine that fits your budget and your brain (in other words, it's intuitive and works for you). So don't be influenced by what one person says. Also please do not pay any attention to what reviewers have written in magazines. Please...please...please. Owners are brand-loyal, so they will say their machine is the best. Magazines recommend the company that advertises with them (or promotes the machines that are the top-sellers, which doesn't mean a thing!). Honestly, my typical reaction to the articles that rate sewing machine is, "Did they ask people who sew to test out those machines?" 

For today, make a list of the type of sewing you like to do. Do you quilt, sew accessories? clothing? home dec? Do you want to embroider? Do you like artsy stuff? Do you like a simple machine with knobs (a mechanical machine) or are you willing to try something with buttons (an electronic/digital machine)? The answers to those questions will help you focus on where to start.


Monday's post will be about setting a budget. What are you willing to spend?!

My Favorite Iron

These are the irons that I use in the studio and I love them. They are easy to clean (we have hard water here) and have an auto-shut off. I know...I know...you hate auto-shut off. But for a studio, it is almost a necessity. Why? It keeps my electric bill low and keeps the fire trucks in the fire station. How's that for peace-of-mind? When you've got a bunch of kids ironing, they are bound to leave one in the wrong position; if you don't catch it in time, you'll have a disaster on your hands. I'd rather not take the risk.

It does take a little practice to figure out how to work with auto-shut off. You can't keep ironing and ironing - it needs to be tipped up to reset it - or it will shut off and spit water on the fabric.

If you are curious about how to clean and care for your iron, please refer to the T-Fal website.