The Basic Back Pack Pattern Update

From time to time, I make some minor changes to my patterns. This usually making sentences shorter and moving diagrams. My most recent update was one of my favorite beginning sewing patterns...The Basic Back Pack.

This was really popular with the kids in my studio - they'd make a bunch for their friends. I even modified it for one girl who was a regular - I embroidered "Cheer" on it!

 Why is it a great project for a beginner? 

• The 1/2" seams leave some wiggle-room for mistakes. Everything doesn't need to line up perfectly.
• The cording is threaded through a casing at the top rather than a seam. More room for error!
• The final step involves sewing side/bottom seams rather than inserting the lining in the outside and sewing along the top...and hoping it fits. 

 There's a divided  pocket inside.

 Here's a close-up of the side tabs. I wrapped the cording in tape to get it through the eyelets.

Thread the cording through the casing with a BIG safety pin or a cord threader. I have a collection of these...red..blue. 

FYI: I've used both for years. One of the "eyes" snapped off on the blue one, but I still use it. I LOVE this product!!








This pattern is only $3.99!

Purchase on Craftsy
Purchase on Etsy.

Eyelet Plier Hack

I insert a lot of eyelets and grommets into my project using the Dritz Eyelet Plier Kit. And every. single. time, I have to get out the directions. At first, I copied the back of the package and laminated it. I put that into my little "grommet/eyelet" basket were I kept them. Even so, I'd read and re-read out of fear that I'd do it incorrectly.

The other day I was adding some eyelets to a hanging shoe organizer that I cut up so it would fit going down my stairs. And it finally hit me: write on the pliers (Deep Half goes on the Right Side - Shallow Half goes on the Wrong Side).

BTW, I love my label-maker, too.

Hand-Crafted Seam Ripper!

My friend Anna dropped by yesterday to pick up some zippers and hardware (to make her Bandolier Bag!) and gave me one of these beautiful seam rippers. Her uncle makes them and sells them in his Etsy store (SnowFlakeBowls) - along with some other items like bowls and pens. What a great gift! So I thought I'd share it with you.

I think these would be great to give to someone who is new to sewing. Why? A seam ripper?? I think those who are new to sewing often expect perfection. Or at least they think that those of us who've been sewing awhile are "perfect." They don't realize that even the experts mess up. It's all about experimenting and being comfortable making mistakes and seeing it as an opportunity to learn. I have several seam rippers scattered around my sewing room - and they all get used. But this one will remind me that ripping seams out is a beautiful thing!

SEW BAD: 14 Sewing Habits that You Need Break!

Last year, my most popular post was my review of 13 bad sewing habits (in honor of 2013). Now it's 2014, so I thought I'd add 14 more. Many of these are based on the comments that you, the reader, provided! So here we go...

(14) Sewing in the dark. When I first start sewing, I had amazing eye sight. Now I'm blind without my bifocals. For me, great lighting is a must. I'm lucky to have a sister who works for a cardiologist. When they got new beds (is that what they are called?), they got new floor lamps. But the floor lamps were those lamps that we ladies are quite familiar with...you know...not the ones a cardiologist would use. So I have an amazing Brewer Halogen 35 Exam Light! Use whatever works, but stop sewing in the dark!

(13) Not taking the time to press properly. You might go too quickly, you might iron when you should press (and stretch the fabric), you might use steam when you shouldn't, you might use the wrong temperature...whatever the problem, please take time to press!

(12) Watching TV. I don't have a TV in my sewing room, but one of you mentioned that this was a bad habit - mainly because it's distracting. This is especially dangerous when slicing fabric with a rotary cutter! YIKES! And to be honest, I can't imagine watching Downton Abbey while I'm sewing! 

(11) Being careless with your bobbin. One of you mentioned to be sure to thread your bobbin correctly. This is a tension issue - bobbins are wound and threaded in a particular direction for a reason. I've seen lots of bobbin problems: adding thread to a bobbin that already has thread on it (only wind thread on to an empty bobbin); winding the bobbin wrong (read your manual if you are in doubt), placing the bobbin in the machine in the wrong direction (again, check your manual). Also, for a drop-in bobbin, make sure the thread is inserted correctly. If I would get sewing quickly, the bobbin thread in my Janome would pop out of the tension and be all loosy-goosy. I could hear it happen!

And one more thing that a few of you mentioned...thinking that there is enough thread in the bobbin to finish a project. Ah, we all know it runs out with about 2" to go!

(10) Sewing while on meds. OK, I believe in sewing therapy, but there are times that we need to take some cold medication (or similar) that makes us drowsy. Probably not a good idea! Thanks to the reader who suggested this!

(9) Putting pins in your mouth. I rarely use pins, so this is not a problem for me, but, yikes....it's an accident waiting to happen. I love my magnetic pin holder. I have several of them. Get those pins out of your mouth! And speaking of pins, you really need to stop sewing over them - if hit a pin with your needle, you can jam that pin into your machine. You machine will hate you! =)

(8) Using a folding chair. My back is sore just thinking about this! I use an office chair - but I have a dedicated sewing room. For those of you sewing a the dining room table, make sure you are getting good support and that you are sitting at the correct height. This Sewlutions Guideline might help!

(7) Not taking breaks. I have a really bad habit of sewing for long periods of time. But sometimes it's just a good idea to take a break, especially when you are struggling. I stretch and go for a run on my treadmill. It clears my head and allows me to problem solve. Do what works for you!

(6) Not practicing new techniques prior to doing them. I'm a teacher who really believes in trying out new techniques. I've posted lots of tutorials in my Craftsy Pattern Store with the goal of helping you learn techniques - instead of being just a project sewer! So practice the technique prior to trying it on a project. Trust me...I've ruined a few projects because I thought I could figure it out. 

(5) Being afraid of zippers. I know. I was there. My friend Caitlin sent me directions for installing a zippered pocket. I was totally freaked out and sat on it for about three weeks. I finally mustered up the courage, got out some scrap fabric and an old zipper, and tried. It was hideously wonky. But I quickly figured out what I was doing wrong. I tried again. Now I can't get enough of zippers. Go to my Craftsy Pattern Store to download some free zipper tutorials! BTW, I buy all my zippers at ZipperStop!

(4) Being afraid to make a button hole. It's all about practicing. Yes, the button hole attachment looks a bit intimidating, but dig out some scrap fabric and your owner's manual and start playing. I think you'll be surprised how simple it is. 

(3) Storing thread out in the open. Yes, it's cute to hang thread on a peg board. My mom did that. In fact, I have a lovely pink peg board. But all of my thread is safely tucked away in drawers and jars. Why? Thread collects dust.  That dust gets in your machine. I once wrote about this...

(2) Using pens to mark up fabric. And by pens I mean pens, like Bic. Use pens and markers designed for marking fabric - or you might permanently stain your fabric. I prefer water-soluble markers and small pencils. But you still need to test them. Even markers designed for fabric can stain!

(1) Guessing when you can look it up. The internet wasn't around when I learned to sew, but I was lucky to have a talented sister and mother who would answer my questions. Now I look things up. I watch YouTube videos. This Craftsy class looks great...40 Techniques Every Sewer Should Know. Sure, some of the techniques are for projects you won't make, but the techniques might help you with other projects. I never considered myself a quilter, but I use quilting techniques ALL. THE. TIME. on non-quilting projects!

Anything you'd like to add?

Cuddle Confident: Sewing Plush Fabrics

Check out my recent Sew Mama Sew post on sewing plush fabrics!

Parts of a Sewing Machine: Interactive!

If you are new to sewing, you might not quite understand what all the knobs and levers are on a sewing machine. I found a picture of one of my basic beginner sewing machines and got to work making it interactive - just place your cursor on the picture! I've provided some links to websites and videos. Give it some time to load....and enjoy! 

Sew Bad: 13 Sewing Habits That You Need to Break

 
It’s 2013. And in honor of unlucky number 13, I’ve decided to start the year with my 13 bad sewing habits that you need to break. Now. 

Sofa Slipcover Courage

I decided to tackle my sofa next. Yikes. If I thought about it for too long, I knew I would over-think and over-analyze and make it out to be more than it was. But I figured that I had nothing to lose. I may have to rip out some seams or throw it away...so who cares. I'm a bit of a risk taker when it comes to sewing and I love to push myself. Why? Because of the reward of a job well-done and the lessons I always seem to learn. And the teacher in me believes in at least trying. Heck. my favorite speech is Teddy Roosevelt's Man in the Arena. If you are doubting yourself, you need to read it. My friend who grew up near Teddy Roosevelt National Park in Medora, ND gave me a framed copy of it and it hangs in my sewing room. So here it is...

It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.

So today is about courage. The courage to try something that you never thought that you could do. The courage to push yourself when your evil twin sister, Debbie Doubter, tries to step in and discourage you.

The whole thing about tackling something like a slipcover is to be realistic. So here are my rules for your first slipcover:

1. Let go of perfection. This is a slipcover. It's supposed to be a little loosy-goosy. And I find that they are fairly forgiving. Once you start using a slipcovered sofa, things will move, compress, and flatten. It will not look like a magazine spread. So get over it!!
2. Let go of the details. This is your first slipcover so it needs to be about construction. You don't need piping or zippers. Use velco or ties..or safety pins. The Student Learning Outcome (in higher ed we call them SLOs) is simply this: figure out how it goes together. For your second or third slipcover, you can add some finishing touches - and let those be the SLO for those slipcovers. When you have too many SLOs for one project, you get overwhelmed. We don't want that.
3. Let go of fancy. OK, stick with something that is boxy and flat. When you add a lot of curves (like a wingback chair) you are asking for trouble. My first project was an Ottoman. I did a lot of unsewing (ripping), but I learned a lot. And it was a confidence-booster.
4. Let go of getting it done in a day. You may need to sleep on it. I may be strange, but I problem-solve in my sleep. My mom did it. I do it. So when I get a little lost or stuck, I take a break and do something else like laundry or vacuuming...or call a sewing friend...or take a nap...or actually go to bed. This empties my brain and allows new thoughts to sneak in. It make take a day or two of thinking, but I find that it reduces the frustration I get if I keep trying and screwing up.
5. Let go of doing it like other people do it. I've scanned the web for directions on making slipcovers. I downloaded an e-book. I consulted some books in my own collection. They all approached it differently. I sew, so I'm used to patterns, marking, and measuring. I'm also slightly lazy and in a big hurry. I also love zippers and am a stickler for detail. So I needed to come up with my own approach that was a combination of what all those designers did. 

Those are my rules for slipcovers. BULLY! And tomorrow you'll see the progress on my sofa.  The cushions are done but I ran out of fabric; today I'll head to Home Depot for more drop cloths (that's what I use) and then get them washed. And in the meantime, I have some crib sheets to make. Looks like baby Gus will be arriving next week!

But here's a sneak peak. And if you need to catch up, read about my Ottoman here.

Read all the posts in the project:

• Slipcover Update: The Cushions
• Slipcover Update: The Frame
• Slipcover Update: The Arms
• Slipcover Update: The Arm Front
• Slipcover Update: Hemming and Done

Today's Project: Burlap Bag Part 2

I finished my Burlap Bag (computer tote) - made with a burlap rice bag, denim, and home dec fabric. It was a lot of fun to design and to put together. 

I added some pockets, including an exposed zippered pocket. Now I can slide my laptop in that along with the cord. My mouse fits comfortably in another pocket.

Everything is all tucked in safe and sound. I fused some fusible fleece to the lining, so it's padded.

I thought about different handles and straps and decided on two 27" handles - that I padded with fusible fleece. These seem to support the weight of the computer better than anything else.

I love this bag. It's big enough for my laptop and any other goodies I may want to carry.

Learn more about how I took care of the scratchy burlap problem - The Burlap Bag: Part 1

The Tube Turner

Ring holder on a Jewelry Roll.

One of my favorite sewing gadgets is this Turn-It-All. It makes turning and stuffing tubes really easy. I recently used it to make a ring holder for a jewelry roll.

It's really simple to use:

1. Sew your tube and clip the corners.

2. Insert the correct-sized tube (there are three tubes that come with the Turn-It-All) into the open end of your project.

3. Insert the dowel into the other/sewn end your project. You'll be poking the tip of the dowel into the open end of the tube.

4. Push the dowel into the fabric/tube. You're project will be inside the tube, so push it all the way out. You are done!

5. If you'd like to stuff it, just put the tube inside your project, cram in some stuffing, and use the dowel to push it in. You'll have to keep moving the tube up so the stuffing goes into your project and doesn't get stuck in the tube.

Here's a video demonstration!

Better Purse Pockets

Last night in one of my classes, we changed the pattern a bit by making the pocket bigger. The ladies loved it but then only issue was that the pocket was so big that little things like lip gloss got lost in the vast depth of the pocket.

So here is a quick fix. When you are putting your final touches on your pocket, make one area more shallow by sewing a quick line of stitches across the bottom. Just measure and sew!

Today's Project: The Big Bag

This bag from Kwik Sew 3749 is one of my favorite patterns. The directions are easy to follow and the bag is roomy. I also like the handle placement. 

This is KWIK SEW 3748

One of the tricks to this pattern is sewing the gusset. The gusset is the rectangular shaped piece of fabric that is sewn to each outer side - it makes the bag wider. You'll find gussets in clothing, especially under arms and in the crotch area of fitness clothes, and will recognize them by their rectangle and diamond shapes. On clothing, they are designed to take stress off of seams.

Gussets can be tricky because they have to line up correctly...which isn't easy when you are going around curves. There is a tendency to pull and stretch the fabric; do this and you'll end up with some extra fabric and no where to go.







So here's how I recommend sewing a gusset to the big bag. The technique works because any extra fabric is worked into the curves and doesn't end up at the top of the bag.

A. Place one of the outside pieces right side up and place the gusset piece on top - RST. 

Line up the bottom seam (gusset) with the middle bottom of the bag.

Sew from the seam to the first notch - be sure to back stitch.

Remove from your machine.

B. Flip bag over and line up top of bag with top of gusset. Sew from top to notch (you'll be sewing into the area you just sewed.

If you've done your work, it should fit. If it doesn't look like it will (you should check it when you have about 3" left), flip it back over so the gusset is on top and work in any extra fabric.

C. Take the bag out and starting at the bottom seam, sew until you reach the notch. 

Stop, back stitch, and remove from your machine.

D. Flip the bag back over so the gusset is on top.

For the last step, go back to the top and line up the corner of the bag and the gusset. Sew from the top to the notch, back stitch, and remove.

CELEBRATE! The sewing fairies have created some sewing magic!

Ruffles Made Easy!

Yesterday I wrote about the process I go through to develop a pattern. I used a ruffled apron as an example - and here it is! I just finished my final run through!

Part of the process involves making and attaching ruffles. My mother taught me a LOOOOONG time ago how to make ruffles using a zig-zag stitch and embroidery floss. It's a technique that I continue to use today. In fact, I use it so much, that next to my machine sits a mason jar full of used embroidery floss!

So here's how to do it:

1. Set your machine to a big, wide, long Zig - Zag stitch. So for those of you who can, please increase your stitch length to about a 4 and find a wide zig-zag stitch.

2. Place your embroidery floss on your project (this is one of my apron ruffles). Leave a 3" or so tail.

3. Line up the (a) edge of your fabric and (b) your embroidery floss. Much of the placement will depend on your foot. I lined the edge of my fabric with the edge of my feed dog. The embroidery floss is lined up with the middle of my foot.

4. Sew! Make sure you go slowly. Don't sew over the embroidery floss!

When you get to the end, leave a 3" tail and remove from your machine.

5. Done!

6. Tie a knot at your starting point. I put a pin through the knot and pin it to the fabric. 

You need to do this because in a moment, you'll be pulling the embroidery floss from the other end. If it's not secured, you'll pull your embroidery floss out.

7. Start pulling the embroidery floss from the other end. I usually have markings on the ruffle and in this case, the apron, that help me divide things up so the ruffle is evenly distributed. I pin the ruffle to the apron at those points.

8. Once the ruffle is in position, start sewing. I use a walking foot - believe me, it's a lot easier. I line the edge of the ruffle/apron up with the 1/4" point on my walking foot. I also moved my needle over.

Don't sew over the embroidery floss or you won't be able to remove it. OK, if you do, it's not a big deal, you can clip it with scissors!

I also use a pair of curved scissors to help me evenly feed the fabric through the foot.

I recommend that you sew in segments. For my apron, I divided the ruffle and the apron into two sections. I pulled and flattened the ruffle from the end to the middle and sewed it on. At the middle point, I put the needle down, pulled the embroidery floss, flattened, and pinned the other end of the fabric to the apron...then flattened the ruffle out and continued sewing until I reached the end of the row.

9. DONE! Clip the knot out, grab your long tail, and pull the embroidery floss out.

I save these pieces in...my mason jar!

RUFFLES! SASSY!

UPDATE: See more aprons here.

Online Fabric Deals

I would not consider myself a fabricaholic. I buy what I need and buy with a project in mind. Maybe I'm cheap, I don't know. I love to look at fabric but I have a garage that needs to be sided and a drafty house that needs some work. So either I make quilts to keep me warm or I skip the quilts and buy insulation! I've opted for the insulation.

I also don't have a lot of time to shop in person, so I buy most of my fabric online. I look for deals. I try not to pay retail. Here are two of my favorite online retailers for home dec and upholstery fabric:

Dust ruffle made with Fabric Guru fabric!

Fabric Guru is awesome if you want to buy lots of yardage. They typically sell what's left on the bolt - my best purchase was 14 yards of pink and brown striped twill - Susan Sargent for Robert Allen home. I think I paid around $4 a yard. When you get to their website, look to the lower right side for the mark-downs. There are some major deals. I'm looking at it right now and may have to go shopping. $4.99 ships everything.

Pillow made from The Barn fabric.

The Barn Fabric Center doesn't have the volume of fabric of Fabric Guru, but they have great prices - they often run specials where all drapery fabric (or whatever) is like $5.99 a yard. I'm partial to The Barn because I live near Williamsport! Shop local! Nonetheless, a few years ago I scored several yards of Waverly Grand Central Spa for $4.99 a yard. It retails at JoAnn Fabrics for $39.99 a yard.

And you can't beat their prices on outdoor fabric. Wow. Right now it's $4.99 a yard.









And if you are wondering, I don't spend all day looking for great prices. I just happened to come across these. So be patient and have fun! 

Pattern: Easy Fabric Belt

Summer is quickly approaching, so get a head start on your accessories with this cute reversible belt. It's a great project for a beginner - you just need to be able to sew a consistent 1/4" seam. Yes...that's it. And that awesome buckle? I got it at Crafter's Vision! Love their buckles!

Hip sizes vary, so you'll need to take some measurements first.

• Hip Measurement: measure your hips and add 7" -- this is the length of your fabric. If it's close to 42" (or the typical width of cotton quilting fabric), you will be fine. If it's bigger than that, you'll have to add some fabric.

1. Cut Fabric:

• For front of belt: 1 strip of fabric that is 2" wide x hip measurement. If your hip measurement is greater than 42", you'll need to cut two strips and sew them together, then cut to the correct length.

• For back of belt: 1 strip of fabric that is 3" wide x hip measurement. If your hip measurement is greater than 42", you'll need to cut two strips and sew them together, then cut to the correct length.

• Fusible fleece: cut 2" x hip measurement. If your hip measurement is greater than the fusible fleece, cut two pieces but DON'T sew together. You'll just butt the ends together and fuse them to the fabric.

2. Remove selvages.

3. Fuse fleece to the 2" strip of fabric:

• Place the fleece on the ironing board with the rough side up (that's the glue). Place the 2" strip of fabric on top with the right side (pretty side) facing up. Cut off or add fleece as needed. Place the iron on top and fuse according to directions.

Fuse fleece to fabric.

4. Mark your opening:

• You'll need to leave an area open to turn this right side out. To make it easier, it will be in the middle of the belt.
• Flip the 2" fused front fabric over so the fleece side is right side up. 
• Using your fabric marker, mark the middle of the belt (on the fleece). Then mark 2" to the right and to 2" to the left of that mark. 
• You now have marked your 4" opening. You don't sew in this area.
• It's not a big deal if you are a little off, so don't worry. I often mark approximates.

Mark opening.

5. Sew along one long side of your belt:

• Place the 2" strip on top of the 3" strip, right sides together (RST) with the FLEECE SIDE UP. 
• Line up one long side of fabric (there will be an extra inch on the other side).
• Using a 1/4" seam, sew along one side (be sure to back stitch when you begin and end).
• When you reach the end of the belt, stop sewing, back stitch, clip threads, and remove from machine.

Sew along one side.

6.  Sew along the other long side of your belt:

• Line up the other long side of your belt. That extra 1" of fabric will create a bubble in the middle. That's what it is supposed to do! Be sure that you don't sew this.
• Place in machine with the FLEECE SIDE UP.
• Using a 1/4" seam, sew along the side.
• When you reach the end of the belt, stop sewing, back stitch, clip your threads, and remove from the machine.

The bubble on the back.

Sew along other side.

7.  Sew the short ends:

• Because the back is wider than the front, you'll have to even out the ends.
• Finger press the excess fabric so it is flat and the fold lines up with the edge of the 2" piece. 
• Sew the ends using a 1/4' seam (fleece side up!)

8. Press:

• On the fabric side of you belt (fleece side down), set your seams (press them flat - don't open the seams). Doing this sets your thread into your fabric and makes for a crisp edge to your belt.
• Find the opening and press that seam open. 

9. Turn right side out:

• This is a bit tricky, but with your fingers, start to push the belt through the opening.

• Place the belt on a smooth, small, and long curtain rod. This will help you turn the belt right side out. 

• Gently pull the belt over the rod the belt. 

• Poke out the corners.

10. Finish up!

• Press belt flat - you should have about 1/4" of the back fabric folded over and on the front side of the belt. Try to keep this even.
• Pay particular attention to the opening. Keep it even. 

11. Top stitch closed:

• Change your stitch length so it's at about a 3. 
• Start at one end of your belt, and sew along the outside of the belt (using about a 1/4" seam allowance). Sew non-stop, all the way around, pivoting at the corners.
• Take extra care when you sew the opening closed - it might shift a bit.

12. Weave your buckle on and wear with pride!