Today's Project: The Grab and Go Clutch

In between the chaos of moving my studio home, I'm making a little bag for my friend's Mother-in-law. She asked for a clutch, and I immediately knew what pattern I'd use - The Grab-And-Go Diaper Clutch - which is for more than just diapers! 

This is a great pattern that is moderately easy to follow - perfect for someone who is ready for something a bit more challenging. Although I used my Loopy Lanyard technique to make the strap and made the inside flap out of the same fabric as the exterior, I pretty much stuck with the pattern, which is highly unusual for me! 

I really like how the bag goes together, especially the technique for sewing the lining. It was a little counter intuitive and something that I had never done - the lining is sewn into the bag so it doesn't lift out. But I managed to figure it out.

When I asked about fabric, my friend said, "Something bright. Her favorite colors are pink and yellow." So after texting some pictures of fabric, she decided on this one! The bag turned out great.

The pattern also includes directions for a quilted changing pad. I recommend that you try it out - but do a quick run through before using some good fabric. The final few steps can be a bit confusing.


Happy sewing!

The Little Lightsaber Baby Room

My friend Bridget is pregnant and she and her husband are going with a Star Wars-themed baby room. The only problem is that it's difficult to find baby-sized Star Wars items. Their wish was to take some Pottery Barn sheets and turn them into crib sheets. Not a problem! I've got some other ideas up my sleeve, too.

So here's my to-do list for this project:

1.  Turn sheets into fitted crib sheets using the tutorial at Sew4Home.

2.  Make a quilt using this awesome (and sale-priced) novelty/licensed fabric from JoAnn. I'm not sure of the design, but it will be something that showcases the fabric like this (free) Speedy Baby 2 pattern.

3.  With the leftover fabric, I plan to make a diaper bag. I love this pattern at Warehouse Fabrics. Because I'm using a mid-weight cotton, I'll make the bottom out of denim or something a little heavier.

I'm planning things out right now and, once the fabric arrives, I'll be posting my progress!

Taking a Quick Break!

It's that time of the year for me: Final Exams! I've been busy grading and will be wrapping things up next week! YAY! Once I submit grades, I'll be closing my sewing studio and moving my things to my home! This will give me time to work on my own projects and teach classes at the local Bernina dealer (Penn Yan Sewing Machines in Penn Yan, NY).

So today I learned about a really cool foot for my Bernina - the Gathering Foot - #16 - WOW!

I didn't use it to make this ruffled apron, but I will next time! Check it out below!

Foot Book: The Zipper Foot!

Woah, May got here a little too quickly! But here is the next chapter of The Foot Book: The Zipper Foot.

I used to be afraid of zippers, then I started playing around and realized that they aren't that difficult to figure out. So make a sample page using whatever zipper technique you like!

Here I am adding my zipper to my fabric.

Almost done!

And here is the final page! Nothing fancy - I edged the page with embroidery floss just to finish it off. Be sure to read my articles about zippers! Just follow the link to the right.

I put a clear pocket on the back of each page for my notes. Next month I'll write about that process!

Free Pattern: Pimp My Pillow

Who doesn't love a monogrammed pillow? And you don't need an embroidery machine to make this! All you need is is a little bit of fabric, some fusible web, a 22"/23" zipper, and an 18" pillow form. This is a great way to test out your zipper skills!

First, read my tutorial on installing a zipper in a pillow, then go to my Craftsy Shop and download the free fonts! And while you are there, buy a pattern or two!!

CUT FABRIC AND FUSIBLE WEB:

• Cut 4 —10” squares of fabric for the pillow front (to make the four-patch).
• Cut 1 — 9 ½” square for the monogram circle.
• Cut 1 rectangle of fabric for the monogram letter—this should be slightly larger than the actual monogram letter (approximately 9 ½” x 8”)
• Cut 1— 18” square for pillow back (optional: make the back a four-patch, too).
• Cut 1—9 ½” square of fusible web (I use Heat N Bond Lite) for monogram circle
• Cut 1—9 ½”x 8” (approximately) rectangle of fusible web for monogram letter

START SEWING!

Using a 1/2" seam, sew (RST) two 10” squares together, sew other two 10” squares together.

Press seams open.

Sew the sets of squares together - don't worry about getting the center all lined up; it will be covered with the applique circle! Press seam open.

TRACE AND FUSE: Get the 9 ½” square (monogram circle); following manufacturer’s directions, fuse the fusible web to the wrong side of the fabric.

Using a compass (or other tool), draw a 9” circle on the paper side of the monogram circle.








 

Cut out the circle. Use some good scissors but not your best pair. The paper will dull your blade.

Trace the letter on to the paper side of the fusible web - don't worry about it being perfect-you can fine-tune it when you cut it out. Cut off the excess fusible web BUT leave about ½” outside the letter.

Following manufacturer’s directions, fuse the fusible web to the wrong side of the monogram letter fabric.

Cut out the letter. 

Remove paper from the monogram letter, center it on the circle, and LIGHTLY fuse it to the fabric (you’ll press a stronger bond in the next step).

Remove paper from monogram circle, and permanently fuse to the pillow/four patch—this can be centered in the middle of the pillow or placed wherever you’d like.

I've used a ruler to center my applique.










APPLIQUE:
Applique as desired. Make sure that you follow the flow of the letter. It may take some time to figure out where to start.

You may want to add some tear-away stabilizer to the area that you are monogramming. This will strengthen the fabric. Once you are done, remove the stabilizer.

It helps to leave a long tail when you begin and end. You can use a self-threading applique needle to pull the threads through.

SQUARE UP: Cut the pillow front so it is 18" square. 

 
An easy way to do this is to place pillow front/four patch on cutting mat, and line up the center of the design on the 9" mark and square up; cut as shown in the figure to the left.

     

Follow the directions in my zipper tutorial to sew in your zipper - be sure to put the zipper in the bottom of the pillow so it's hidden.

Once you sew in the zipper, open it about 6". Place four-patch and pillow back RST and sew the remaining sides. If you plan on washing this, you may want to overcast along the edge. Clip corners and turn right side out through the zipper!
Enjoy!

 

Happy Zipper Day

I'm a day late with this post, but we can still celebrate Zipper Day. What is Zipper Day? One hundred and thirty two years ago, on April 24th, Gideon Sundbäck was born. Who is this man? He is the inventor of the zipper! YAY! Read more about Gideon...

So we threw a little party in the studio and made some zippered pillows. It's an easy technique, so check it out: learn how to put a zipper in a throw pillow by reading my post!

Free Pattern: The Loopy Lanyard

I'm a college professor who possesses quite a collection of keys. My office is in one building and I teach in two other buildings - and I have keys to the buildings and the rooms. The easiest and safest way for me to transport them is on a lanyard. My first one was ugly - black and red (school colors) - and I mean ugly because I wear neither black nor read. I lean toward the pinks and pastels. So I made my own. And you can, too. 

This isn't your typical lanyard. I've created a simple technique for joining the ends that creates a loop and reduces bulking seams. Follow along!

Cut various pieces/scraps that are 2 1/2" wide. Cut enough to make the lanyard long enough: when you sew these together, the total length will be about 42" - but, it will depend on how long you like your lanyard. I'm almost 5'9" and prefer them a little longer.

Using a 1/4" seam, sew them RST along the 2 1/2" ends.

Do a quick test to see if you like the length. Add more if necessary.

Press in half, wrong sides together. You can see the crease here where I pressed.

If you are stretching the fabric a bit, try some spray starch to stiffen the fabric. It really helped mine!

Open back up and fold outer edge into the crease. Press. Do this for both outer edges.

Fold together and press. The raw edges should be tucked inside.

Open up one end, wrong side up. Fold back the end about 1/2" and press (WST).

Refold the entire lanyard.

Slide on a swivel hook (3/4") and a key ring.

Place the fabric flat on a table (wrong side up) and open up the ends.

Take the end that is unfinished and place it on top of the end that is folded over. Make sure the lanyard isn't twisted. This is the joining seam (well, I'm calling it that!)

Refold and flatten. Use your fingers to hold this in place.

Head to your machine.

Place the lanyard in your machine so the needle is about 1/2" before the opening/fold that you just created. The open edge should be sewn first (so it's to the right).

I'm using an edgestitch foot with the needle moved over.

Sew all the way around the open/right edge of your lanyard until you've reached your starting point. Stop there with your needle down.

Lift your foot, turn the lanyard. and sew across the fold/joining seam.

Then lift your foot, pivot and sew along the other side of the lanyard.

 

Take your lanyard out and find the joining seam. Move your hook and key ring down to the seam. 

You are now going to sew across the lanyard to hold the swivel hook and key ring in place. The secret to doing this well is to run the right side of your foot up along the ring/hook, move your needle to the right (if you can), and start sewing IN THE MIDDLE. Sew forward to the edge, then in reverse, then back to the middle. Starting and stopping in the middle hides the thread tails .

Repeat for the key ring.

And here is what it looks like! The Loopy Lanyard.

I've used this loopy technique for detachable handles on little clutches. It works great.

Good luck and have fun! This is a fast and fun project.