Transit Tote Class

A few weeks ago, I taught six of my friends to make a Transit Tote. The six hour class (with lunch break) started late thanks to a brief April snow storm; and here's the thing...up to that point of the year, we had a total snow fall of about 10". So it was totally unexpected. The 45 minute drive to Penn Yan took about 30 minutes longer. Why was that a problem? All six were already exhausted when they arrived!

Truth be told, this is not a fast project. There are a lot of little steps, and my Inside-Out Zipper Technique is counter-intuitive and unlike most zipper techniques. So there's not a lot of "Oh, I know what we are doing next" moments. But, there is good news: once you make one, you'll probably say, "Wow....I get it."

But Amy was a trooper. Out of all six, she was the least experienced. As I watched her, she'd read aloud...one step at a time. And really, that's the best way to tackle this pattern.

And here's she is:

Yes, there's a lot going on.


Toward the bottom of the picture, you'll see the zipper bottom with the mesh pocket. Looks fab!

Paper and a zipper!

Done! Here's the inside. I love the red ribbon zipper tabs!

Here's the front!

Nice work Amy!







You can purchase this pattern in my Craftsy Store and on Etsy.

Understanding the Transit Tote

When I decided to create the Transit Tote, I was inspired by this cosmetic bag that I had been using every day to store my make-up. I think it was from Lancome? Clinique? Estee Lauder? Who knows. I loved it and knew that I could modify it to fit my traveling needs. 

I had to adapt my Inside-Out Zipper Technique quite a bit to make this, but in the end, it's something that I'll be using to design a lot of other patterns.

I am not a fussy sewer. In a way, I'm more of an engineer who sews. That seems odd to those who know me. I'm not an engineer. In fact, my math skills end with geometry. I teach college...and I teach nothing remotely close to engineering... or art for that matter. I teach communication. But I've always loved technical writing, so writing patterns is fairly easy (and fun) for me. I am an efficient person; I streamline just about everything I come in contact with. Maybe I watched the original Cheaper By The Dozen a few too many times. FYI...if you watch the original, you'll be introduced to Frank and Lillian Gilbreth - pioneers of time and motion studies. Lillian Gilbreth invented lots of things that make our lives easier - like the foot-pedal trash can and egg/butter trays in refrigerators.

So figuring out how to make this cosmetic bag became a challenge. I made a few rough drafts and got it on the third take.

Here's what you end up working with:

1. A lid and a bottom.

 This is the lid (inside).











The lid (outside). The gray dotted fabric is the handle.

There's a bottom piece that is similar.












2.  A zipper panel.

This goes together using the Inside-Out Zipper Technique.

When the zipper panel is complete, it looks like this.

















And those three pieces get sewn together:

Sewing the bottom to the zipper panel. It's a bit cumbersome, but nothing too difficult. There are a lot of layers, so I used a jeans needle and went slowly.

The bottom is on! Now I'm sewing the lid to the zipper.

Those Wonder Clips are a life-saver!

The assembly is counter-intuitive. If you bought the pattern you'll probably wonder what I was thinking...but don't give up. Just take each step one at a time. Trust me...it looks more complex than it actually is!

Here it is. This was the third one I made.

And the back.

I'm back to work soon, but I plan on developing a backpack pattern using this technique. I bought a cute artist notebook at TJ Maxx and already began sketching it.

Transit Tote Pattern Review

I recently sent my Transit Tote pattern out for review to have someone make it and test the pattern. OK...the someone was my sister. And if you have a sister, you probably know that they are the best pattern testers! I knew I'd get honest feedback.

My sister knows a lot about sewing. She makes clothes, slipcovers, curtains, etc...; a few years ago she took up quilting. And I'm not biased (really!), but she's talented. Much more detailed than I am. She's more of a traditional sewer who sews from store-bought patterns. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous. 

She ended up making three of them - they are for her two daughters and one daughter-in-law. I love the red zippers!

The good news is that she had very few corrections - and they were additions to help someone who's familiar with traditional patterns.

Here's her review on Craftsy:

Have been sewing for decades but always used traditional patterns. Loved the pictures of the Transit Tote but when the pattern came was a bit confused by the nontraditional way it was made. Decided the best thing to do was trust the designer. I followed the directions carefully (good pics! great instructions!). LOVE IT!!! Made 3 for my daughters for Christmas. NOW the pattern makes perfect sense!! (Note: The Peltex was difficult to sew through, probably won't use it next time.)

I agree with her review of the Peltex. I prefer a tote that I can squish into my bag! You can purchase this pattern on Craftsy and on Etsy. 

You can read more about this pattern here.

Purse Insert with Double Zipper

In mid-November, my friend Aparna contacted me...she and her son were flying in from Australia and traveling around the US reconnecting with family and friends. She was wondering if I could meet up in D.C. - and hang out with them and our mutual friend Dereece and Dereece's niece. YES!! I wouldn't miss it!

I wanted to make something for her son...who I shortchanged about ten years ago. See....my friend moved to Australia...and I sent her and her daughter a few things....purses. But I sent nothing to her son. I know. I'm a total loser. I make purses. That's my defense.

I knew that I had to do something especially for him, so I redesigned my purse insert and made a Dopp Kit for him (that's a fancy term for a men's toiletries bag). Although my home was being renovated, I dusted (literally) off my sewing machine and engineered this double-zippered bag.

It's just a redesign of my purse insert. I wanted to add two zippers so the bag would open wide, allowing easy access to items. I used my Inside-Out Zipper Technique. I sketched and thought about it. Eventually I just dove in and did it. The double zipper was a bit tricky, but I didn't overthink it. And it worked. 

Here one side. I had to add a piece above the zipper.

Easy access to all the contents. Which might be video game stuff rather than toiletries.

I extended the zipper flap and added a snap to keep it closed.

I'm painting my newly renovated space, but once I'm done, I plan on fine-tuning the design and posting a pattern for this bag.

The Basic Back Pack Pattern Update

From time to time, I make some minor changes to my patterns. This usually making sentences shorter and moving diagrams. My most recent update was one of my favorite beginning sewing patterns...The Basic Back Pack.

This was really popular with the kids in my studio - they'd make a bunch for their friends. I even modified it for one girl who was a regular - I embroidered "Cheer" on it!

 Why is it a great project for a beginner? 

• The 1/2" seams leave some wiggle-room for mistakes. Everything doesn't need to line up perfectly.
• The cording is threaded through a casing at the top rather than a seam. More room for error!
• The final step involves sewing side/bottom seams rather than inserting the lining in the outside and sewing along the top...and hoping it fits. 

 There's a divided  pocket inside.

 Here's a close-up of the side tabs. I wrapped the cording in tape to get it through the eyelets.

Thread the cording through the casing with a BIG safety pin or a cord threader. I have a collection of these...red..blue. 

FYI: I've used both for years. One of the "eyes" snapped off on the blue one, but I still use it. I LOVE this product!!








This pattern is only $3.99!

Purchase on Craftsy
Purchase on Etsy.

Transit Tote PDF Sewing Pattern

I've been working on this Transit Tote pattern for over a week! My brain is fried!

I ended up making six of these. When designing a pattern the first step is to focus on the big problems (measuring and design flaws). Then each subsequent one allowed me to fine-tune and focus on the minor problems (like technique and removing bulk). During this time, I post pictures on a private/secret FB group and get feedback.

Here's the front. I included a tutorial for adding two zippers rather than one long one. I used a version of my Inside-Out Zipper technique so you don't really "birth" the bag - and you don't have raw edges anywhere!
 

The mesh pockets are made with the mesh from a laundry bag!








The final size is 6 1/2" x 9 1/2" x 6" (tall).

The pattern includes this little Jewelry Valet. It unsnaps and folds flat so it will fit in your luggage. 

It's 4 3/4" x 4 3/4".

You'll also get the pattern for this little zippered mesh bag. It's 4" x 8".










 



The project looks more complicated than it really is. It took me about 3 hours to make the last one (and that includes jotting down pattern changes and new ideas). The technique that I created is unconventional, so read through the entire pattern before starting! Have fun!

Purchase in my Craftsy Shop 
Purchase in my Etsy Shop

And here are some behind-the-scenes from my "photo shoot" this morning.

My sewing room - getting ready. I think it's a lot like me...looks better in person. Really, it looks messier than it actually seems!











 

My photo studio. This is my screened-in porch. Those are "cat" shelves that my cats ignore. They prefer the carpet-covered kitty condo that's been moved to another part of my house.

I taped up white paper to make the background neutral.









Here's my design assistant. It was a bit chilly, so I donned my Mansfield University sweatpants and my ...uhm...25 year-old Penn State sweatshirt and headed out with my high-tech Canon camera. Really, it's not high-tech. It's a point-and-shoot that fits in my pocket. 

So nothing fancy here. I really love this tote which made doing this a lot of fun. But I had trouble stopping - I couldn't stop with the Transit Tote...I had to make the mesh bag...and the jewelry valet. Why? I head back to work next week (I teach college) and once classes start, I'm down for the count! 

I hope you enjoy sewing this tote! Happy travels!

Making a Pleated Mesh Pocket

Yesterday I wrote about mesh pockets, so here's how you can make a pleated mesh pocket. These are great for bigger items. This is the side panel/gusset piece for a big tote bag that I use when I'm traveling.

You'll need mesh. I use laundry bags and hampers. And you'll need binding. I make my own - here's my tutorial.

1. Measure your pocket. I made mine 2" wider and about 4" shorter (2" top and 2" bottom) than the side panel. Cut your mesh.

2. The pocket top binding is the width that I cut (2" wider) BUT the bottom is the width of the side panel/gusset.

3. Add the binding to the top of the pocket. Here's some help.

4. Open the bottom binding and mark the middle. Ignore the other marks here-I was experimenting!

5. Next, using this as a guide, sew the binding to the mesh BUT stop at the middle mark.

6. Remove from your machine.

7. Line other (unsewn) end of the mesh up with the the other end of the binding. You'll have excess fabric in the middle.

8. Move the extra fabric so it's out of the way and, starting at the middle point, sew the remainder binding to the mesh. DON'T sew the pleat yet!

9. Remove from your machine.

10. Press pleat flat as shown.








 





11. Sew pleat in place. It will look like this.

Notice that the pocket bottom is narrower than the top.

12. Flip binding to right side.  Attach mesh pocket to your project by sewing it along the TOP and the BOTTOM of the binding.















How will you use mesh pockets!?

Making Mesh Pockets

I've become a big fan of mesh pockets in my totes and purses. I like them because I can see the contents of the pocket; oh, and they are really easy to make!

All you need is some mesh. I checked out JoAnn Fabrics and found some tulle. I don't particularly care for it, so I've stuck with my go-to: laundry bags! I purchased pop-up hampers from Big Lots and recently discovered these from Target. I like the ones from Target because they are big (36" x 24"), so they work perfectly for my bigger sewing projects.

 






Here's what you need to do:

1. Cut your pocket to the correct size. My pocket sides and bottom are sewn into the seams, so think about that. You might have to put the binding all the way around.

2. Cut and make binding. I have a tutorial if you've never made it. I prefer my method because one side is wider than the other. This should be the length of your pocket (or whatever won't be sewn into the seams).

3. Place the narrow side of the binding on top of the mesh as shown. Line up along the edges. This will be the back of the pocket.

4. Sew in the fold. I use a walking foot - it feeds more evenly.

I don't pin. I just go slowly, making sure that the edges stay lined up.

If you need to, sew binding where it's needed. This pocket is on the inside of a big tote (it's part of the side panel/gusset). You'll see the binding at the bottom of the pocket. I didn't want a pocket that was too deep. I made this pocket about 2" wider than the side panel and created a pleat in the bottom. UPDATE: Here's how to create a Pleated Mesh Pocket.

5. Flip over and wrap binding over to the other side (this will be the front.)

6. Sew the binding to the mesh as shown. 




7.  Attach the pocket. Sew dividers as desired!


You could make this zippered if you wanted!

Here it is!

You can purchase the pattern for this purse insert on Craftsy and Etsy.