Ms. Elaineous Teaches Sewing

Sewing on Laminated Cotton and Iron-On Vinyl

2012-02-24T06:00:00.000-05:00

Insulated Lunch Tote

Cosmetic Bag with Brush Roll

Two of my favorite classes/patterns are my Hey Sister! Insulated Lunch Tote and The Cosmetic Bag with Brush Roll. These two projects use laminated cotton and iron-on vinyl. Laminated cotton is regular cotton fabric that has been laminated at the factory; iron-on vinyl is a product that, when ironed on regular cotton fabric, adheres the vinyl to your fabric. The result is a light-weight laminated cotton fabric.

So here are my tips when sewing laminated cotton and iron-on vinyl.

1. Use a Walking Foot: I have sewn on clear vinyl and cursed my way through the project. Why? The fabric sticks to the bottom of the foot. So I've used tissue paper, post-it notes, and powder. BUT...I don't find that I have the same terrible problems with laminated cotton and iron-on vinyl; I just use my walking foot.

This is topped with wax paper - to make brush holder.

2. Use Goody Hair Clips: Pins put permanent holes in the fabric, so use Goody Hair Clips. These are a cheaper alternative to what you can find in the quilting notions department.

3. Use Quilt Basting Spray: If you need to hold layers together, spray it with Quilt Basting spray. It will be less likely to shift. With my projects, I needed to sandwich fabric and batting - so I just sprayed and stuck, then clipped!

4. Use a Sharp Needle: If your needle seems to struggle getting through the fabric/layers, switch to a Microtex/Sharp needle. It pierces the laminate better.

5. Use Wax Paper: You can't really draw on vinyl, so draw on wax paper, then clip it to you project. I had to do this when I was making the pockets for my make-up brushes. So you can see from the picture above, I drew my lines, then sewed right on those lines. I removed the wax paper - the final version is to the right.

6. Watch the Iron!: It's tough to get wrinkles out, so press from the back - and cover with a pressing cloth. DON'T press the front - the hot iron will melt the vinyl! For the iron-on vinyl, you can put the protective paper over it and press it.

Learn more about Iron-On Vinyl by watching this great video by Tiffany Bliss.

Beginning Quilting: Color

2012-02-23T06:00:00.000-05:00

Thistled Tones from Design Seeds.

Learning to quilt can be a little overwhelming...with all those pieces of fabric...and rulers...and thread...but it can be even more mind-boggling when you throw in fabric and color selection. I consider myself a bit of a risk-taker with color -- and I have had some disasters. But I recently came across this AMAZING website that offers readers color palettes. WOW...find something that you like and head to the fabric store. I think it's become my new addiction. So please check out Jessica at Design Seeds. Wow. Wow...It's hard to pick a favorite, but for now I'll go with Thistled Tones.

Making Your Own Buttons

2012-02-22T06:00:00.000-05:00

If you have a project that needs a button, why not make your own? You can pick up a kit in the notions section of a store and get busy making colorful and unique buttons.

I got the idea from J Caroline Creative - they posted a tutorial on using buttons to make magnets and thumbtacks!

The kit comes with the two-part button (back and shell) and the two-part tool (pusher and mold) to put them together. You will cut a circle template from the package. It's really easy to do!

I purchased a set of plastic circle templates and used those to trace the buttons rather than the cardboard templates (which I wear out).

In either case, you'll select the template that matches the button size and trace your circle. I'm making a monogrammed button to go on a zipper pull.

You'll want to select light/thin weight fabric like cotton quilting fabric; if it's any heavier/thick, you won't be able to press the button back into the button shell. It might help to give the fabric a light spray with starch.

Once you've traced your circle, grab the button shell and the mold.

Center the fabric (wrong side up) in the mold. Push the button shell in the mold. Work the fabric in - this is why you don't want thick fabric.

Place the back on top of the fabric that's all scrunched in there.

Place the pusher on top and push down. You'll hear the back click into place.

Pop the button out of the mold. If the back is a little off-center, you can pry it off and try again.

Here's what they look like when they are done. I love the monogrammed buttons - I attach them to a jump ring (found in the jewelry making supplies) and use them as zipper pulls!

Want to learn more? Head on over to LollyChops for a detailed tutorial and some more ideas!

Learn to Sew: Backstitching

2012-02-21T06:00:00.000-05:00

Last night I finished up my last session of my four-week Beginning Sewing: The Basics class. I've been teaching this class almost every month for the past 20 months. I've learned a lot about beginning sewing! So here is the most common question I get: "When do I backstitch?"

The purpose of a backstitch is to lock the beginning and ending of a seam. So you backstitch when those seams need to be locked! Generally that means almost anytime other than basting, decorative stitching, and quilting. There are plenty of other times you don't backstitch, but I'm keeping it simple! When it doubt, backstitch!

Here are my steps for backstitching:

Place your fabric in your machine and line it up at the proper seam allowance.
Start a little in (about a 1/8" - 1/4") from the end of the fabric.
Hold on to your tails (thread tails) and take a few stitches forward (about 1/4" to 1/2"). Let go of your tails.
Sew in reverse until your needle is almost to the the end of fabric. You'll be sewing right over those initial stitches you took.
Stop and go forward and continue on until you've reached the end of your seam.
Stop about 1/8"- 1/4" from the end of the fabric,
Go in reverse about 1/2" or so, then sew straight off the end of your fabric. Yes, you'll be sewing into nothing.

When you are making a project that involves corners, you'll want to be sure that your backstitching overlaps. This will strengthen the seam joint. This is especially important when you are clipping your corners.

And one more thing...don't sew over pins. If you hit the pin with your needle, you can break your needle, mess up the timing on your machine, and jam that pin into your machine. Go slowly and take them out as you go. Once you get good, you won't need pins on many projects!

When you are doing a decorative stitch, you can do a quick reverse to lock in your stitches - but don't over-do it your you'll ruin the look of your decorative stitch. When top-stitching, you can avoid the ugly backstitching look by making your stitch length smaller when you begin and end (for about 1/8" - 1/4").

A note about the locking stitch. Some machines come with a stitch that knots the thread. This is a great alternative to a backstitch BUT only when you are doing a decorative stitch or top-stitching. It isn't as strong as backstitiching and isn't suitable for any seam that needs to be held in place.

Learn to Sew: Making Fringe and Tassels

2012-02-20T06:00:00.000-05:00

My homemade fringe maker.

Several years ago, I tried a technique in Linda Lee's book, "Sewing Edges and Corners." It was magic - I made my own fringe from yarn and ribbon. I rigged up a frame from dowels and wood (yes, I'm the daughter of a carpenter!) and went to town. I wrapped the ribbon and yarn around the dowels, and wrapped and wrapped and wrapped some more. Then I used some Seams Great to sew it all together. Viola! AWESOME fringe! But it was a bit difficult and time-consuming.

So when I opened my studio, I had a problem: I didn't want to make frames for my sewing students, so what could I do? Well...I didn't need to do a thing because someone else had a BETTER IDEA and now you can buy your very own fringe maker from My Own Fringe Maker!

Has anyone tried it? It's a bit pricey, but the fringe is incredible!

Learn to Sew: Sewing Edges and Corners

2012-02-17T06:00:00.000-05:00

Sewing Edges & Corners by Linda Lee is one of my all-time favorite books - and I used it to teach myself, and with A LOT of practice, eventually master many of the techniques. The photographs and directions are clear as a bell and easy to follow. Plus, there are some really unusual techniques that can make a project truly your own.

Go to Amazon and take a peak inside this book. Some of the mysteries of sewing will be solved - like piping and boxed corners/gussets. I promise that it will be a wonderful addition to your sewing library!

Beginninng Quilting: Simple Quilt Project

2012-02-16T06:00:00.000-05:00

If you are a beginning quilter, here is a great next-step-quilt: Fit For A Princess Quilt. It's a simple pattern that is made from Fat Quarters. I like it because it's a tad more challenging than sewing squares together -- and there are no borders.

Here's my work-in-progress up on the design wall. I'm making mine bigger than what's instructed on the pattern.

The fabric is Basic Grey: Blush. This is a Fons and Porter Quilt Design Wall, but Elizabeth Hartman has a great tutorial on making a design wall.

I used to draw diagonal lines but recently switched to a Sew Easy Guide from Sew Together. Visit their website for some great videos on using this tool.

And a quick word about the Fons and Porter Quilt Design Wall. The reviews on Amazon are negative. I have four of these and love them! The only problem I've had is that the grommets can come off. But I just sew a button hole in place of the grommet. I've tried flannel-backed table cloths but many of them don't have enough "flannel" to make the fabric stick. If you decide to buy your own, table cloth pads (that go under a fabric table cloth) work really well. They are thicker. I got mine at Target.

Today's Project: The Cozy Cushion

2012-02-15T06:00:00.000-05:00

Willow loves her doggie bed! This is a great project for someone who has some sewing under his/her belt and is looking for a new technique. It has an interior pillow (the same boxed shape) that can be removed through a zipper in the exterior. Both the inside pillow and the outside can be washed.

Sewing the gusset. A bit tricky with corduroy. It can be a bit stretchy. We took care of that with some tacking, basting, and pinning.

Love that turquoise zipper!

Done!

Want to make one? Head on over to Sew4Home and check out their Nature Brights Kitchen: Cozy & Cool Pet Bed.

When I'm making a bed for my animals, I stuff it with a cheap pillow; I add more fluff from old pillows that I rip open.

Why I Love Sewing!

2012-02-14T06:00:00.000-05:00

It's Valentine's Day so it's the perfect time for me to declare my love for sewing! No surprise there!

When people meet me and they find out that I sew and own a sewing studio, usually the first response is, "You don't look like you sew" and the second response is, "I've always wanted to learn to sew." I can't do much about the first comment (yes, we aren't all old ladies!...although... I am approaching 50!) but when I hear the second comment, I launch into my speech about the benefits of sewing. And wouldn't you know, along comes an article about the ways that sewing reduces stress! YAY! Thanks Better Homes and Gardens!

And one more thing, when people also find out that I am a college professor who teaches public speaking, the response isn't so positive..."I'm awful at public speaking" or "oh. I hate public speaking." Hmmm... not so easy to address that one! Could be a completely different blog!

Why do you love sewing?

Learning to Sew: Practice First

2012-02-13T06:00:00.000-05:00

When you are first learning to sew, it's a good idea to play around on your machine without thread. This will help you get the feel of the machine without worrying about thread jamming and bobbin winding. I've posted some free worksheets in my Craftsy Pattern Shop to help you with this.

The first sheet is simply straight lines - the goal of this is for you to work on ...you guessed it...sewing straight! Line the RIGHT edge of the foot up on the edge of the line and WATCH THE EDGE OF THE FOOT and NOT THE NEEDLE!

The second worksheets will help you work on speed control; they are squiggles. Line the right side of the foot up on the edge of the squiggle. SLOWLY sew next to the squiggle. It's not easy and you may not be able to do it. The point isn't to sew perfectly. The point is to learn how to control your speed with your foot or the speed control on your machine.

The third set of worksheets are connect the dots. These don't make anything...one day I'll fix it and you make a spool of thread or something. But for the time being, all you need to do is start at "1" and sew to "2" - then end with your needle down, lift your foot, pivot (with needle down), drop your foot, sew to "3", lift your foot, pivot to "4", drop your foot and sew to "4." This is all about getting used to ending with your needle down, lifting your foot, putting your foot back down, etc.

Have fun with these. It's a great way to get comfortable with your machine.

Stitched: The Film

2012-02-10T06:00:00.000-05:00

If you are looking for a great way to bring a community of quilters (and sewists) together, why not consider showing Stitched: The Film?

Last month, our local Quilts of Valor group (Southern Tier Quilts of Valor) decided to host a screening of the film in Corning, NY. And what started out as, "Let's sell tickets" quickly turned into a big community event that involved local merchants and restaurants...and didn't involve selling tickets. Instead, we are asking attendees to trade a 12 1/2" block for a ticket.

The Palace Theater (on Historic Market Street) has graciously agreed to turn their lobby into a quilt show on Tuesday, March 20th. We'll display completed Quilts of Valor along with a collection of quilts pieced from the blocks we've collected.

We are fortunate to live in an area where quilting and sewing is BIG. And we are blessed with several quilt shops, yarn shops, and craft shops along with multiple quilt guilds -- who all support our Quilts of Valor group.

I've asked the women who are getting their tickets at my studio (Sew You Can) to use the Wonky Log Cabin pattern from Tallgrass Prairie Studio. If I can manage it, all the blocks will have the same center (gold fabric) but what they do from that point on is up to them - as long as it's patriotic themed/color fabric.

Our goal is to sell out two shows - a total of 320 seats...and 320 blocks. That's a lot of quilts all going to a great cause.

For more information, visit our website. Or go to the Quilts of Valor Foundation.

Zippers 101: Cosmetic Bags!

2012-02-09T06:00:00.000-05:00

When I was making purses, I had a lot of requests for zippered bags. Yikes! Then my wonderful friend Caitlin sent me a tutorial on how to make a zippered pocket. I adjusted the placement of the zipper and changed the technique for a cosmetic bag. So please follow along!

First, go to my Craftsy Pattern Store and download the Zippered Cosmetic Bag Pattern AND the two FREE tutorials: How To Make A Zipper Template and How to Insert an Exposed Zipper.

4. Place template on fused fabric.

Cut fabric to the size you desire.
Fuse fusible fleece to the back of the exterior piece of fabric - following manufacturer's directions. Fusible fleece works best. It makes zipper installation a lot easier.
Get zipper template.
Place fused exterior fabric (with fusible fleece right side up) on a cutting mat, lining it up on the corner of mat.
Place template on top (this is a 12" x 14" piece of fabric) and center it.
Draw around the opening in your template - creating a small rectangle.
Get lining fabric and place exterior fabric and lining fabric RST!
Head to your sewing machine.
With fabric together, sew ON THE LINE you just drew. Go all the way around the rectangle. Pivot at the corners. Take your time.
Slice the opening as shown - I use a rotary cutter and scissors.

ARE YOU READY!?

Pull the LINING fabric through the slice you just created. I promise...it will start to make sense!

Straighten and work with fabric. The lining and exterior fabric will now be wrong sides together.

I like a little bit of the lining fabric to show around the opening. The lining fabric will not be perfectly flat! It will pucker around the corners. Press flat.

TIP: I put it right side up, then reach under and straighten out the lining fabric...and press.

Head back to your machine with your zipper and cosmetic bag. Sew around zipper once. Then stitch in the ditch. You'll find more detailed instructions in my free tutorial in my Craftsy Pattern Store.

BTW, you can see the cute lining fabric around the zipper. It looks like it's piping!

You will have to fiddle with the zipper pull when you are sewing in the zipper. You can see the installed zipper here:

Here is the zipper from the back/inside of the cosmetic bag.

When you are done, you can go ahead and make your cosmetic bag!

DONE!

Freemotion Lesson: Practicing

2012-02-08T06:00:00.000-05:00

Freemotion stitching can be a bit intimidating - I've seen that horrible look of fear when I teach this class. But after multiple lessons and lots feedback, I found something that worked - and took some of the fear away. When you are teaching yourself freemotion:

Make a quilt sandwich out of old fabric or muslin. The sandwich should be about 20" x WOF. One side will be the selvage and the other will be the fold. Tuck the batting in between. Spray with basting spray.
Take a Sharpie and draw lines that are about 1 1/2" to 3" apart.
Remove all the thread (none...nothing in the bobbin, either). This will allow you to focus on the motion part; you won't get worried about the thread tension, the look of your design, the consistency of the length and distance between your stitches. Just play with the movement.
Make a zig-zag pattern -- start at the bottom right hand side and move from the right line to the left line, then back to the right and so on until you are at the top. Then come back down. And yes, it is often more difficult to push the fabric away from you than it is to pull the fabric toward you.
When you are comfortable with the movement, add thread. You may have to adjust your tension a bit. And you may have to get a different needle (want to learn about needles? Check out the Schmetz Learning Center. If you really have trouble, change thread. Yes, you can try to figure out why that thread doesn't work, but why bother? Just change your thread.
As your comfort level grows, try different designs. Need inspiration? Try the Free Motion Quilting Project! Use the lines to help you focus a bit (look at where you are going...then back at the needle...then where you are going...etc). Go in and out of the lines, so you don't create a path or runway look.
When you are really ready, check out Elizabeth Hartman's tutorial on Free-Motion Quilting.

On a side note, I wear fairly tight rubber-palmed gardening gloves - nothing fancy - that allow me to grip the fabric without much fatigue on my hands. I turn it into a mini-spa by covering my hands in lotion before tucking them into my gloves!

Also, don't forget to drop your foot! Because of the puffiness of the quilt sandwich, you may THINK your foot is down. If it isn't, you'll have big loopies on the back of your quilt sandwich.

Today's Project: The Pi Pouf

2012-02-07T06:00:00.000-05:00

Class favorite!

It was almost two years ago when I saw a Pouf in a magazine. I had to have one. I got busy drawing and calculating Pi...and came up with a design that included a zippered cover that could be removed for cleaning and an inner pouf that could be refilled through a little 5" zipper. Although the math was a bit challenging, it was worth it. I've taught this class several times and it seems to be getting more and more popular. Several of my regulars convinced me to make a slip cover pattern, so I did. And that's what we did today: spent most of the day making slipcovers! We then reviewed how to make a ruffle (that's a LOT of fabric) and how to add piping.

Filling the inner-pouf. What a mess!

We also experimented with different bean bag beans. Our favorite were from Uline. These are smaller and don't compress like bigger ones (that you can find at Wal-Mart). It took a little over one bag to stuff this.

We put a small hole in the bag and slipped in a tube (from a roll of fabric) and taped it up to the tip of the tube. Then we put it in the zippered opening, zipped it up around the tube, and just started carefully shaking the beads into the inner pouf. Yes, we had a few spills!

My recommendation is to do it outside if you can. One of my friends did it on carpet, which seemed to contain the mess a bit more. But dry air is the enemy! These little buggers had a life of their own!

Here is a pouf (sans slip cover). The guys really seem to like this project!

The pattern is available in my Craftsy Pattern Store! I included the slip-cover pattern, too. You will need to know how to install a zipper (Free tutorial "How to Insert a Zipper in a Pillow), so be sure to download that!

Zippers 101: The Anatomy of a Zipper

2012-02-06T06:00:00.000-05:00

I feared zippers until my friend emailed me a tutorial. Before I knew it, I was putting zippers in everything. Yes, I was hooked. It was so easy, I wondered why I waited so long. Want to learn to put a zipper in a cosmetic bag? Check back on Thursday, February 9th. And be sure to head to my Craftsy Pattern Store for a free tutorial on making a zipper template and installing an exposed zipper.

Learn about the anatomy of a zipper from Zipperstop! And be sure to browse their eBay auction. They are great to work with! And their prices are fantastic!

Buying A Sewing Machine: Maintenance

2012-02-03T06:00:00.000-05:00

Now that you've bought a machine, you can get busy sewing and quilting. But your sewing machine is just like your car: it needs regular maintenance! Lint, thread, dust, dirt, broken needles and pins can all jam your machine and ruin your investment.

Almost every time I turn my machine on, I remove lint and give it a quick brushing (with the little brush that came with it). If my project is especially linty, I clean and oil more often - especially in the feed dog area. Every machine is a little different, though. My Bernina has a front-loading bobbin and metal parts, so it needs to be oiled more often. Please talk to your dealer and refer to your owner's manual for guidance. But DON'T BE AFRAID of hurting your machine! They are designed for this!

IMPORTANT REMINDERS:

Use oil designed for a sewing machine. So, no WD-40!
Try to avoid blowing compressed air into your machine. If you aren't careful, you'll blow all the lint INSIDE of it! I prefer a Micro Vacuum Kit like the one from Amazon below. It attaches to a vacuum hose and sucks all the lint out!
Lint may be under the stitch plate, so take it off and clean in there.
Read this article from Threads on Preventive Sewing Machine Maintenance.

Buying A Sewing Machine: Now What?

2012-02-02T06:00:00.000-05:00

So you've decided on a machine, now what? You purchase it!

Try to save money: see if they take trade-ins. Often you can trade in an old machine and use that money to purchase your new machine. Some dealers will take anything, even machines that don't work. Some offer special "no interest" rates if you buy on credit. Some offer a discount if you pay with cash. Some will give you a deal if you purchase more than one machine. Some provide discounts on accessories if you buy them that day. Ask!

Schedule your Owner's Classes: this is where you'll learn to use the machine, it's features, the feet, etc. You've paid for the machine, so you need to learn how to use it to it's fullest extent. It will also help you establish a relationship with your dealer and learn about other classes they offer.

Ask about the service agreement: most dealers will give you free cleaning for the first year or two. So ask and make a note of it. In most cases, it's one year from the date of purchase. When they clean it, they can get into areas that you can't. If you take the machine apart (other than what is recommended), it may void the warranty, so leave it up to them.

Ask them how to maintain it: they'll show you what you should do to take care of your machine. They usually go over this during your Owner's Classes. This usually involves removing lint (with that brush you get) and oiling. They'll show you what oil you need! Only use sewing machine oil!

Keep track of your paperwork: put the receipt in a file so you can find it if you have warranty issues. Keep your owner's manual handy...you'll need it. One of my friends took her manual apart, three-hole punched it, and put it in a three-ring binder.

Buying A Sewing Machine: Testing Machines

2012-02-01T06:00:00.000-05:00

When you head to a dealer to test machines, be prepared. Bring a pen and paper - and a brochure printed from the internet. I recommend creating a spreadsheet with the machines listed in a column, then columns for pricing, features, feet, etc. This spreadsheet will give an at-a-glance overview. If that's too much, you'll still want to take notes.

If you are nervous, take a friend...whose job is to talk you out of going over your budget!

The very first thing to pay attention to is how you are treated. The dealer should be nice and genuine. You should feel comfortable and welcomed - tell them what you are looking for - and they should start you there. If they try to up-sell (sell you something out of your budget), GET OUT. Some dealers sell multiple brands - so you can test out a lot of different machines - but he/she shouldn't push you to a particular brand. You need to decide! So practice saying, "That's not what I'm looking for" and "I think that machine is more than what I need." Trust me. I know way too many people who spent a lot of money on a machine that they can't handle.
The second thing you want to do is ask about the warranty for the machines. Along with warranty information, question their service agreement - often stores will offer free service (cleaning and oiling) for a specified number of years. You can also ask how much service usually costs. Some dealers will have a "trade-up" program; this means that if you use your machine for less than a specified period of time (like 6 months), you can bring it back, return it, and apply the cost to a new, more expensive machine. Also ask about lessons. Most dealers give free owner lessons. Some even have subsequent classes so you can learn more about the machine - these may have a fee.
Look around the store and start with the most expensive machine you are willing to buy; test it out...then work your way down in price. If you start at the lowest price and work up, you'll probably keep going and end up out of your price range! Plus, this will help you figure out what you can and can't live with.
Note the features and accessories that come with each machine, along with the price. One often over-looked feature is the light. A good light can make or break a machine. Can you actually see to sew?!
The dealer should give you sample fabric to sew on. Most will have you sew different weights (so a sheer all the way up to denim). It's important to think about how you'll use the machine. If you plan on making totes and purses or home dec, you'll want a machine that can sew through several layers of fabric. I've seen dealers fold denim several layers.
Watch how the machine feeds the fabric - it should feed evenly and not pull the fabric to the right or left. You should have a consistent seam allowance. Listen to the machine - it should sound smooth. The machine should not hesitate, especially when you are sewing thick fabric.
Try different stitches - straight stitch, zig zag, decorative stitches, buttonhole, etc. Try the stitches that you use a lot.
Wind a bobbin and put it in the machine. How easy is it to do?
Thread the machine. Does it thread easily?
Use the machine in a way that you would use it. It should feel comfortable. Can you find the buttons and knobs? Will it be easy to learn where everything is?

Don't be shy about asking questions and test-driving the machines. This is an investment and you want to be happy with your decision.

This should get you started on your journey. Tomorrow, we'll go over what to do once you make your decision.

Buying A Sewing Machine: The Goodies!

2012-01-31T06:00:00.001-05:00

Machines have a lot of features - some you'll use and some you won't. I've done an informal poll of my friends and students and found that they love the following features:

Needle Up/Down: The needle will end up or down - you determine what you want. No more turning the hand-wheel to move the needle!
Automatic Needle Threader: I can't live without this! Thread your machine, then use this feature to thread your needle!
Needle Position: With the push of a button, you can move your needle to the right and to the left. It makes sewing a lot more precise!
Front Loading OR Drop-in Bobbin: A front loading bobbin loads from the front of the machine. I have found that this bobbin maintains tension better but it's cumbersome to change. You can't see it once the little door is closed. A Drop-In Bobbin loads from the top; you can see it as you sew. This means you can easily check the amount of thread that remains. But thread has been known to slip out of the tension.
Lights: Machines come with a light, but not all are the same. Some will mimic sunlight which makes seeing your sewing a lot easier!
Extension Table: Although these can be purchased, some machines come with an extension table. You can find large ones at your dealer or at an online source like Sewing Machines Plus.
Decorative Stitches: In addition to utility stitches (straight stitch, zig-zag, blind hem, etc), many machines have decorative stitches and alphabets that can add an artistic element to a project.
Feet: Most machines come with a standard set of two or three feet, but many include additional feet and attachments.
Buttonhole Foot/Attachment: This varies on most machines, but you want an attachment that makes putting in a buttonhole easy. Ask for a demo when you go shopping.
Scissors: Some machines will cut the thread for you. Yes, you read that right. Push a button and you're done!
Knee Bar: A knee bar attaches to your machines and allows you to lift and lower your presser foot with a push of your knee. This means that your hands are free to hold your project! I use mine so much, I have a bruise on my knee. A favorite among quilters.
Foot Pedal: Press the back of the pedal and your needle raises/lowers; press the front and the presser foot raises or lowers! More hands-free sewing!
Dual-Feed: Dual feed is a feature that allows the foot to work in conjunction with the feed dogs - so it pulls the fabric through the machine from both the top and the bottom. So, when sewing thick or multiple layers you don't end up with a bottom layer that is uneven with the top layer.
Stitch-Regulator: A stitch regulator is a feature/foot attachment that makes free-motion stitching a lot easier. Freemotion is when you drop the feed dogs and you are in control (quilters often do this to quilt). Here is a great example of freemotion stitching with additional information on feet. And here is an incredible blog that features different designs - The Freemotion Quilting Project.
Easy to Access: You'll want a machine that is easy to take apart to clean. You should be able to get your hands and fingers into places to take screws out.
Magnifying Glass: Some machines come with a magnifying glass attachment. As my eyes age, I find this more and more attractive!
Machine Embroidery: Some machines sew and embroider - dual duty! Watch the video below to get an idea what an embroidery machine does - this machine is plugged into a computer. WARNING - You may want to turn the volume down =) And if you are wondering, that machine with the embroidery unit cost about $3300 (in my area). Bernina no longer makes the 440 QE.

Any other favorite features? Tomorrow we'll look at what to expect when you test a machine!

Buying a Sewing Machine: Setting a Budget

2012-01-30T06:00:00.010-05:00

I've had many different machines and brands in my studio - and if there's one thing I've learned it's "you get what you pay for." So my advice is to get the best you can afford.

Machines can be as inexpensive as $50 and as expensive as $10,000. Because a sewing machine is an investment, I recommend purchasing a machine from a reputable dealer; you will pay more, but you’ll get lessons, customer service, and a warranty. A quality machine will last considerably longer if properly maintained. Plus, I believe in supporting local businesses. If you don't have a local dealer, you can drive to find one or you can order something online. Buying online is tempting (cheaper) but you won't have a chance to take it for a test-drive or ask for help.

When you get opinions from others, keep in mind that there is a lot of brand-loyalty. You'll find that everyone thinks that there machine is the best and better than the next person's machine. Also, be careful of online reviews and magazine recommendations. The top selling machines are usually the ones that are cheap and are easy to buy...and not always good quality. I have sewn on almost every brand out there (Singer, Janome, Husqvarna-Viking, Bernina, Brother, Kenmore, and yes, even a Shark!). I own a Janome, a Husqvarna-Viking, and a Bernina. And from my experience (and don't be mad at me!), the machines my students have the worst time with are the ones that are sold at big box stores. The fabric doesn't feed evenly, they won't sew through thick fabric, the stitch quality is poor, the bobbin gets stuck, etc.

Most good machines start at around $400. Cheaper machines will work, but often have plastic parts that will easily wear out; you'll quickly spend your savings in repairs. So what do you get with more $$? Well, three things: features, accessories, and quality.

Features: machines now come will all kinds of do-dads. Some machines are really basic with knobs while other are computerized and have push-buttons. You find ones that the needle moves right to left, ends up or down, and threads with ease; have variety of utility and decorative stitches; automatically cut thread; include a multitude of extra feet; can adjust the presser-foot pressure, etc. Think about what type of sewing you do and what you'd like to do. If you quilt, do you really need 150 decorative stitches? Make sure you can grow into your machine. Sewing has changed a lot - so you may start with "I want to hem pants"and end up making cute applique pillows! In that case, you may be interested in a sewing machine that also does machine embroidery (a good embroidery machine can start at about $1000).

Accessories: these are the goods that you get when you purchase a machine: feet, bobbins, table, attachments, etc. So consider the cost of these extras. Sometimes a more expensive machine is worth the added expense (and cheaper in the long run) because of the accessories that come with it. Also consider the feet - I love my feet and use a lot of different ones. Some machines don't have lots of feet. You buy it and get two or three and that's about all you'll ever have.

Quality: when you take a machine apart, you find lots of metal and plastic. Metal weighs more than plastic - but it also wears better. Cheaper-made machines cost more to maintain because they typically break more often. BTW, in my area (upstate NY), a basic cleaning/service costs $49. I take my machines in every two years. So consider those costs, too.

There are several brands that, from my experience, are better quality: Bernina, Husqvarna-Viking, Janome, Babylock, and Pfaff. All of these must be purchased from a dealer, so check them out online first.

Tomorrow, I'll explore what features come on a machine.

Buying A Sewing Machine Week

2012-01-27T06:00:00.009-05:00

I've had a lot of people ask my advice about buying a sewing machine, so I thought I'd write some posts about the process. I own three different brands and have sewn on several brands and models. I've also had a lot of different machines show up in the studio. I do not consider myself brand-loyal - instead, I approach the buying process with an open mind. I believe that you need to get a machine that fits your budget and your brain (in other words, it's intuitive and works for you). So don't be influenced by what one person says. Also please do not pay any attention to what reviewers have written in magazines. Please...please...please. Owners are brand-loyal, so they will say their machine is the best. Magazines recommend the company that advertises with them (or promotes the machines that are the top-sellers, which doesn't mean a thing!). Honestly, my typical reaction to the articles that rate sewing machine is, "Did they ask people who sew to test out those machines?"

For today, make a list of the type of sewing you like to do. Do you quilt, sew accessories? clothing? home dec? Do you want to embroider? Do you like artsy stuff? Do you like a simple machine with knobs (a mechanical machine) or are you willing to try something with buttons (an electronic/digital machine)? The answers to those questions will help you focus on where to start.

Monday's post will be about setting a budget. What are you willing to spend?!

Cutting and Making Bias Strips

2012-01-26T06:00:00.000-05:00

A little baffled by bias binding? This is a great tutorial from Cindy and Jina at Riley Blake Designs. They show you how to fold the fabric to make cutting easier; then you'll get a quick lesson in sewing the strips together!

One thing, though, I don't recommend her ruler placement - I'm a from the school of "put the ruler over the piece you want." So I would use the marks on the ruler to cut the bias strips.

Fabric Woes: Puckering

2012-01-25T06:00:00.002-05:00

In my Beginning Quilting: The Basics class last night, one of my students was struggling as she sewed two different weights of fabric together - one was stiffer/heavier and one was softer/lighter: the softer one puckered. This resulted in uneven seams and wonky blocks. We put in a new needle, adjusted the tension, slowed down...nothing worked. Then I got out the spray starch. We got the softer fabric pieces out and sprayed (then pressed until dry) and sprayed again. The starch stiffened up the softer fabric so it would feed evenly with the other fabric. VIOLA! Problem solved!

Here is a great article on starching quilt fabric from Generations Quilt Patterns; it includes directions on making your own starch!

Learning To Sew

2012-01-24T06:00:00.001-05:00

Last week I was organizing old photo albums and scrap books and stumbled upon my collection of sewing samples from when I earned my Girl Scout Sewing Badge in the mid-1970s. The pages were yellowed and the sewing was crude - and all by hand.

I learned to sew from my mother, who could make and alter anything...and I mean anything. And they all looked beautiful and perfect. It's no wonder I didn't take sewing seriously until I was in my early 30s - nothing I did could compare with what my mom made! She mostly sewed and altered clothing - two things I have very little interest in. But what I learned from my mother was to make things that look both nice and well-made. My mother was all about quality; and to quote my brother, "Mom was not store-bought."

My mother was born on a farm in rural Michigan in 1925. And as you can see from the picture, she had a keen sense of fashion at an early age. Up until the day she died (at age 85), I think she wore jeans only once. I don't think she ever sported anything remotely close to a sweatshirt. And her friends never influenced her style.

One of the things I tell my sewing sisters (and occasional sewing brother) is to do what you like and to develop your own style. So when they ask me what I think about their fabric choices or design styles, I usually answer, "Well, do you like it?" I do voice some opinions if they seem conflicted, but I don't offer advice when they are looking for approval. If they did what I liked, they'd become me.

So the first important lesson is to find your style and be proud of it. Come up with some words that describe you, then find fabric and patterns to match that. When you do, you'll love to sew!

Lovely Labels

2012-01-23T06:00:00.002-05:00

I'm a big fan of labels - they identify you as the maker and show the world what you've created. Personalized labels also may an item look professional!

I purchased my satin labels online at Heirloom Woven Labels. But I've found some at All Things Labels and Namemaker.

You can also make your own labels. Allyson Hill has a great tutorial.

If you'd like to learn more about lovely labels, go to Sew4Home. They have some wonderful examples so you can see exactly what is available to you!

Our Feet Don't Wear Shoes: Buttonhole Foot

2012-01-20T06:00:00.009-05:00

Buttonholes can be used to make buttonholes for buttons, but they can also be used for a decorative element - make a row of them and insert ribbon through them. Super cute! I've also used button holes for curtain hooks, for a drawstring/casing, and to reinforce holes I've cut for purse feet and magnetic closures.

Buttonhole attachments vary greatly from machine to machine. I've included some links that may be of help. Don't be intimidated by this foot! Watch the videos below and practice, practice, practice.

BERNINA: Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3

JANOME: Janome Accessory Tutorial - includes videos for lots of attachments. Here is a guide to the basic Janome Automatic Buttonhole Foot R. And here's another handy-dandy tutorial for the 11000.

HUSQVARNA-VIKING: There a few - The Buttonhole Sensor Foot and the Adjustable Buttonhole Foot. These website are really basic, though - no instruction.

Here is a great tutorial from Sewing With Niler! She's got some GREAT tips!

Want to learn how to sew on perfect buttons? Check out the video below:

Our Feet Don't Wear Shoes: Piping Foot

2012-01-19T06:00:00.003-05:00

When you want to add piping, you can use a narrow zipper foot, but I prefer the Piping Foot. There is a groove in the bottom the sits directly over the piping! YAY! I've used the Bernina Foot #12 - Janome Piping Foot - and Husqvarna Viking Piping Foot.

To learn more about piping, go to Sew4Home and check out the awesome tutorial at the Fabric.com Blog.

See this foot in action below!

Our Feet Don't Wear Shoes: The Edgestitch Foot

2012-01-18T09:00:00.003-05:00

Ok, this foot changed my life! It's pure utility, but your stitches will be pure art. This foot (Bernina #10 - Janome G - Husqvarna-Viking Edge Stitching Foot or Joining Foot) includes a guide that, when placed on the edge of fabric, creates perfectly even edge and topstitching.

I use this foot whenever I am adding some detail to purses and purse handles and straps, and when I'm attempting to stitch-in-the-ditch. I place the guide along the edge of the fabric or ditch, change my stitch length (I topstitch with a longer stitch, usually a 3), and keep the fabric lined up with the guide. AMAZING!

The Janome foot is called "The Adjustable Blind Hem Foot," but don't be fooled by the name. What I love about that particular foot is that it is adjustable, so you can "adjust" the distance between the guide and the edge of the fabric.

This foot is a great foot for beginners; the kids in my studio call it "That Cool Foot" because is straightens up their stitches when they topstitch straps for their totes and bags. It works great on machines that don't allow the needle to move.

The video below shows it all!

Our Feet Don't Wear Shoes: The Overlock Foot

2012-01-17T09:00:00.008-05:00

The Overlock Foot (Bernina #2/2A - Janome Foot C - Husqvarna-Viking Edging Foot J) is used to overcast the edge of fabric. It is similar to what a serger does - and is used with a zig-zag or similar stitch. You would use this foot when you need to finish the edge of fabric so it doesn't fray when washed. With some machines, you can use it when making a satin stitch.

What makes this foot work? There is a pin that holds the thread - which would normally pull the fabric - as you sew. And you'll use that pin as a guide to line your fabric up with. A word of caution: it is difficult to back-stitch with this foot. Watch the video below to see how it works.

Our Feet Don't Wear Shoes: The Cording Foot

2012-01-16T10:08:00.004-05:00

The cording foot (Bernina #22 and #25 - Janome Cording Foot H - Husqvarna-Viking 7-Hole Cord Foot) is a ton of fun. Check it out!

I crazy-quilted this composition book cover, added free-motion and decorative stitching, then embellished with embroidery floss using the cording foot. It's a simple and safe project to start with. For more advanced project ideas, look at MarveLes Art Studio is doing! WOW!

Contact your dealer to purchase this foot.

Our Feet Don't Wear Shoes!

2012-01-15T15:49:00.001-05:00

I have a foot fetish. And, no, not THAT kind of foot fetish! I love my sewing machine feet! There are so many kinds that can do so many things; and they all make sewing and quilting easier.

When I first started sewing, I used a 1967 Singer Touch and Sew. I sewed in straight lines while I made curtains, pillows, and purses. That all changed when I bought my first brand new sewing machine - a Janome 6260 QC - and took my first owner's class. We got out the cording foot and, as my instructor started to demonstrate, I exclaimed, "I never knew this type of sewing existed!" Sewing suddenly went from utility to art.

I spend a lot of time talking about feet, hence my fetish. But when you know your feet, your skills improve and your project look less home made. So why not learn a little about your feet?

So, on Monday we'll be looking at the cording foot.

What Color Is Your Sewing Room?

2012-01-14T17:43:00.011-05:00

I've seen a lot of pictures of studio and sewing rooms that are painted bright, exhilarating colors...turquoise, purple, yellow... They look fun and energizing to be in. And then there is my studio: a stone gray/brown color. Kind of boring, yes. I do have accents of fuchsia, pink, and brown. But it is basically blah.

A while a go I learned about color from my friend Julie who does color consultations at her studio, A New Hue. She helps people find a color palette that enhances their skin tone. She painted the walls gray to neutralize any competing colors; and the lighting is broad spectrum (like an Ott Light) so color is more true, like sunshine. When I saw this, it occurred to me that the same thing can happen when we look at fabric in bad lighting.

Anyone who has picked out paint knows that the light coming through the windows changes the color on the walls. We've also all seen ourselves in bad lighting or in a room with a horrible color that makes us look washed out. The color on the walls reflects on our skin and impacts how we look (and feel).

So imagine what it is doing to the fabric in your studio/sewing room. As much as I love fuchsia, when you take that color and add a dash of bright sunshine, the light bounces off the walls and on to the fabric and changes its appearance. And what looks like it matches really doesn't.

That is why my walls are a neutral color (and that goes for window treatments, too). You don't need to ignore your favorite colors: just use them as accents throughout the space (pillows, quilts, storage accessories, bulletin board, etc). That punch of color is all you need to inspire you and your students to find their creative spirit.

BTW, I'm a big fan of Benjamin Moore paint. It is a thicker, higher quality paint that can take a beating. It doesn't drip like cheaper paint and it covers beautifully.

My Favorite Iron

2012-01-13T10:46:00.001-05:00

These are the irons that I use in the studio and I love them. They are easy to clean (we have hard water here) and have an auto-shut off. I know...I know...you hate auto-shut off. But for a studio, it is almost a necessity. Why? It keeps my electric bill low and keeps the fire trucks in the fire station. How's that for peace-of-mind? When you've got a bunch of kids ironing, they are bound to leave one in the wrong position; if you don't catch it in time, you'll have a disaster on your hands. I'd rather not take the risk.

It does take a little practice to figure out how to work with auto-shut off. You can't keep ironing and ironing - it needs to be tipped up to reset it - or it will shut off and spit water on the fabric.

If you are curious about how to clean and care for your iron, please refer to the T-Fal website.

Needles

2012-01-12T09:50:00.000-05:00

Machine needles are an important but often used and abused part of sewing. A lot of sewing and quilting problems stem from using a dull needle, a bent needle, and/or the wrong type and size needle.

To learn more about needles, check out SCHMETZ needles. And yes, they do tell you how to open those pesky packages!

Plumb Quilts

2012-01-11T10:22:00.000-05:00

One of the things I don't see a lot about is a "plumb" quilt. I'm borrowing a term from carpenters (my father is a carpenter), but plumb means exactly vertical or "true." For our purposes, this is a quilt that is even both vertically and horizontally. It's not wonky! When you cut and piece with precision, you get a plumb quilt.

Figure 1

I first heard about this from my friend Ellen who is an avid quilter and longarmer - she also teaches classes in my studio. She's big into precision - so, yes, she's a pinner. But I learned that it is very difficult for a longarm quilter to quilt a wonky quilt. So as you put your quilt center together and add your borders, be sure to measure (as shown in Figure 1). Average your lengths (vertically, and then horizontally). Your borders will be that average. Pin in the middle then at the ends; as you continue to pin, you may have to work in some extra fabric or every so lightly, pull some fabric to get it to fit.

In the end, you'll have a nice, plumb quilt!

Beginning Quilting Class

2012-01-10T14:30:00.006-05:00

I teach my first Beginning Quilting: The Basics class tonight! The class is full - with six enrolled! YAY! Tonight we'll be reviewing quilting basics and cutting fabric.